Week 5 – Cold Rain, Flatlands, and Big Changes (Mile 202.8 – 269.0)

Day 1 – Monday cold and rain were in the forecast. Of course we had sent our cold weather rain gear home the week before. We decided to stay one more day at the Burgundy B&B and ‘“slack pack” hike as far as we could before the rain and cold became too much. That was about 7.1 miles down the trail. We were soaked to the bone, and could see our breath, and knew hypothermia wasn’t far behind. Our host Ms Margaret was kind enough to come rescue us – the warm shower and bed REALLY felt good!

Day 2 – The forecast was still for cold, but rain chances were much reduced.We set out from Old Forge Picnic Area (our previous day “rescue” spot), hoping to make it to Caledonia State Park, and maybe even Quarry Gap Shelter. By the time we reached Caledonia, we’d had enough, not looking forward to the 2 mile climb up to Quarry Gap. Little did we know we’d have to hike almost a mile around Caledonia to register for a camp spot, then hike up to where it was located . Still, we found a nice flat spot right next to the cleanest restrooms ever! It was getting cold, and then as we were putting up the tent the rain came back…of course! It didn’t last long, but was enough to put the chill back in our bones! We rested warm, but it was HARD to get out of the sleeping bags the next morning!

Day 3 – Sunshine! And warmer weather! Praise the Lord! Knowing we had some ground to make up, we were determined to try and get at least 13 miles in that day. It turned out to be a great hike day, and we had those miles in by 4 pm, but Becky’s feet were done, so we found a place to set up the tent. It also allowed us to dry out a few things. Tired, and without much propane left, we decided to not cook. We discovered a brand of pre-cooked bacon that didn’t require any refrigeration after opening, so that rolled up in a tortilla with a cheese stick fit the bill perfectly! Then, around 5 the next morning…we heard the rain.

Day 4 – The sun came out again around 7:30, so we were able to get out of the tent and get on the trail again. But something had changed…really it had been changing all week. Hikers are crazy. We live a miserable existence, go to bed worn out, wake up sore and tired, but the crazy part is…we can’t wait to hit the trail again. We can’t wait to see what’s around the next corner or over the next hill. We can’t wait for the adventure of crossing the next stream, or meeting the next group of hikers, or scrambling over the next set of rocks. That had been our life for the last 4 weeks…but this week, the excitement and spark was gone from Becky’s eyes. Each day she looked a little more sad, weary, and didn’t have the usual “let’s hit the trail” smile on her face. About a mile into this morning’s hike, she turned to me and said “I’m done.” For the last 43 years we’ve spent enough time together that I knew she was finished. We both cried some…ok…a lot! Remember, this had been our dream for more than a year! She had done almost all the planning, the research, and read/watched every movie, blog, Youtube, and FB site during that time. Literally hundreds of hours of getting ready for this adventure – and in that moment we realized she was not going to hike again after today. Her heel hurt every day, her shoulders were constantly in a knot, and the trail was beginning to be a drudgery/monotony. There was no joy. The decision was made to make it to the iconic Pine Grove Furnace General Store and call for a shuttle. We had to get to town and talk through “now what”. Men hate to admit that we cry, but after following my love down the trail for the last 4 weeks, I bawled like a baby most of the 7 miles to the store. Now what?!! That night we checked into the Quality Inn in Carlisle, PA. We booked the room for 4 nights so we could have plenty of time to figure out the next steps. This was our dream…and I still wanted to finish, but it wouldn’t/couldn’t be the same. Becky let the kids and families know, and then we sat and talked. Around 3 or 4 in the afternoon, we agreed I would stay on the trail during the days, and she would be my personal shuttle and concierge for a week or two. She wasn’t about to leave me alone, mostly because she had witnessed up close and personal how helpless I was without her the past 4 weeks. So…right now that’s the plan. I’m slack packing every day, Becky drops me off…maybe meets me during the day…for sure meets me every night, and we go on down the trail. We will let you know if/when the arrangement changes!

Day 5 – Becky dropped me and my brand new “baby” slack pack off at the Pine Grove General Store around 8:30. We had no idea how fast/slow I would be, so decided on a plan to meet me for lunch 8.5 miles down the road at the Green Mountain General store. The trail was incredibly easy that day, the sun was shining, the pack was light, and the miles flew by…so we had an early lunch at around 11. Whiskey Spring Road was the end of the plan for the day…13 miles…so we were headed back to the hotel by 1:30. I liked this slack packing stuff!

Day 6 – I decided to go a bit further with today’s plan. Becky dropped me at Whiskey Spring around 7:30. I was going to hike into the last road in Carlisle (Bernheisel), a little over 15 miles. After 5-6 miles of ups and downs, I hit the “flatlands”! I figured it would be a very boring next 10 miles, but the beauty of the farms and fields was amazing! I arrived at Boiling Springs around 9:30…what a beautiful little town, with a park and lake set in a centerpiece. It was a sunny Saturday, and the banks of the lake were surrounded by families and individuals fishing, strolling, biking and relaxing. I had to go to the local quick shop and get a soda and candy bar and join them for a bit! The rest of the hike to Carlisle flew by, and I realized I was going to make it back in time to eat lunch with my love! I took several pictures along the way, and the farms reminded me so much of my high school hometown, Lockwood MO. Such well kept farms, outbuildings, and fields…I loved every step! Arriving around 12:30 at our meeting place, I realized that the combination of easy trail and light pack had me averaging over 3 miles an hour. I was tired, and a bit sore, so I know I can’t go crazy and start shooting for 25-30 mile days, but I’m encouraged that I might be able to really get some of the trail done quickly with Becky supporting me along the way! We are still going to get this done as a team…I know it! And I’m getting VERY spoiled. I sleep and eat in town every night and morning…in a real bed, with a shower…and clean clothes every day. I’ll take it as long as it lasts!!! Next week, I’ll go for 80+ miles, and if that works, we will see about 90 and 100…still being cautious, but optimistic! (Knowing that I still have the REAL mountains ahead of me to humble me a bit.) And also knowing that the NOBO hikers with FULL packs are still out-hiking me every day…they are amazing! Loving the journey!

PS – Breaking news on Becky’s heel. What had started as blisters, but wasn’t getting any better, we are almost certain is Achilles Tendonitis. So…that explains SO much. What an incredibly tough lady she was, hiking almost 250 miles with that going on every day. Sometimes she scares me she’s so tough. Another reinforcement of why only women are tough enough to have children!